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Tai's War Academy

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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby Paratrooper » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:30 pm

Crouching reduces recoil.
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby AlexKirchu » Sun Mar 18, 2012 1:10 am

^+1

Oh and Tai, are you going to add anything for the new update, like click+drag tips, sprinting (I recommend serpentine sprinting 8D)?
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby Diggy » Sun Mar 25, 2012 4:13 am

i suggest you add more bunker designs along with pictures. Nice Job!
I don't see why more people don't makes forts. even if not useful, they're a lot of fun
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby MoleMan » Thu Apr 05, 2012 6:22 pm

Funk wrote:decoys are crap these days,mosty the game is faster and there a lot harder to draw.

spider tower for the intel are outdated as well.
back when only the spade and grenades destroyed blocks thay where great.

>spider tower for the intel is outdated
AAAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHA

HAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHA

No really, you're quite the jokester.

Spiders aren't meant to stand on their own, that's the damn point of them. The point is you can have five people assault it and they all need to stand in plain sight to do so, making them easy target practice, while their damage is easily reparable (even making the foundation stronger in the process). If you get killed, say 'ENEMY AT INT' in chat and suddenly the int is safe again. If they fire at the blocks holding up the int, the bullet traces give away their position. I can easily go 3/0 and 5/0 in games where I'm defending the int with 1-2 people when I spider, even while some of my teammates are attempting to grief it.
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby SgtDoom » Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:02 pm

With fortifications, being able to quickly get into cover and exposing as little of yourself as possible is key. The fort designs in the OP, especially the ones where the firing holes are only 1 block above ground or require being crouched, are likely to get you killed. All the stuff about camouflaged fortifications is sound advice, though.
A simple trench should be 3 blocks wide, with the front row 2 blocks deep and the other 2 3 blocks wide. This means you can simply step backwards and you're safe from gunfire. if pressed for time, one can just make it 2 rows wide, but I make it 3 to avoid any problems with autoclimb re-exposing me to enemy gunfire.
A fort should have the same structure, but with whatever head covering you fancy. It's a good idea to make it 2 blocks thick, but keep in mind that supports that are 2 blocks thick will reduce field of view somewhat.

If your fort is covering a valley or something, then having the firing slot 2 blocks above ground does cause problems. It's best to have 1 slot 2 units above ground for shooting at enemies at the same elevation as you, and one 1 unit above ground for shooting lower ones, preferably with something to protect you from enemies at the same elevation like a little overhanging of 1 block.

Also, if you're making tunnels, be aware the enemy's going to use them if they see them as well, so while a tunnel from your resupply tent all the way to their intel may seem like an uberepiclolzorz idea, you can be sure they're going to knock you off sooner or later, and flood your base.
Last edited by SgtDoom on Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby Diggy » Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:52 am

SgtDoom wrote:With fortifications, being able to quickly get into cover and exposing as little of yourself as possible is key. The fort designs in the OP, especially the ones where the firing holes are only 1 block above ground or require being crouched, are likely to get you killed. All the stuff about camouflaged fortifications is sound advice, though.
A simple trench should be 3 blocks wide, with the front row 2 blocks deep and the other 2 3 blocks wide. This means you can simply step backwards and you're safe from gunfire. if pressed for time, one can just make it 2 rows wide, but I make it 3 to avoid any problems with autoclimb re-exposing me to enemy gunfire.
A fort should have the same structure, but with whatever head covering you fancy. It's a good idea to make it 2 blocks thick, but keep in mind that supports that are 2 blocks thick will reduce field of view somewhat.

If your fort is covering a valley or something, then having the firing slot 2 blocks above ground does cause problems. It's best to have 1 slot 2 units above ground for shooting at enemies at the same elevation as you, and one 1 unit below ground for shooting lower ones, preferably with something to protect you from enemies at the same elevation like a little overhanging of 1 block.

Also, if you're making tunnels, be aware the enemy's going to use them if they see them as well, so while a tunnel from your resupply tent all the way to their intel may seem like an uberepiclolzorz idea, you can be sure they're going to knock you off sooner or later, and flood your base.



I keep trying to explain pretty much everything you said (especially the tunnels) but nobody on my team listens. nice job
I don't see why more people don't makes forts. even if not useful, they're a lot of fun
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby bbqroast » Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:09 am

One big big issue:
0 = air
1 = block

1111111
0000001
1000001
1111111
Is your suggested pillbox method. You will be killed very quickly and will be unable to move if you come under fire.
1111111
0000001
1000001
1000001
1111111
Is much better, you can hold shift to take cover releasing it to pop up and kill your enemies.
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby Arctic » Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:23 pm

Some of this was fairly obvious for anyone who has played the game, but nice job with this! Liked the building tips, I suck at building
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby CommanderCody » Fri Apr 27, 2012 11:39 am

OMG MAN,YOU PRESS V TO SNEAK AND SHIFT TO SPRINT.
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby Gorman » Tue May 01, 2012 4:40 pm

I don't know if I'm the only one who does this, but when I build forts and such I tend to have 1 block holes in a wall, and then have pillars behind that, so you can walk left and right behind the pillars and angle it so there is only a slight slither to see through. With practice you can walk left and right and have only a few pixels to look out at a time, so you are practically completely safe. An easier variant is to have a 2 thick wall with 2 wide crenelations. You can't pie off as much, but you can still deny a great portion of the field.
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby Venets » Tue May 01, 2012 8:05 pm

This is nice and i know there are other ones out there but this is a good guide.
Helped me a lot.
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby AlexKirchu » Wed May 02, 2012 7:35 am

Gorman wrote:An easier variant is to have a 2 thick wall with 2 wide crenelations. You can't pie off as much, but you can still deny a great portion of the field.


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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby Diggy » Sun May 06, 2012 11:43 pm

make sure to include click and drag, sprinting, infiltrate, and babel.
I don't see why more people don't makes forts. even if not useful, they're a lot of fun
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby AEM » Mon May 07, 2012 7:15 pm

Good intro for deuces +100
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Re: Tai's War Academy

Postby CommanderCody » Mon May 07, 2012 11:01 pm

AEM wrote:Good intro for deuces +100


Nice Avatar, is that Commander Appo?

User warned for this post: Entirely out of topic, useless in this thread. ~Doc
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